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                     Morale—Leçon de choses, Economie Domestique – Ménage – Cuisine –
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            <pb type="page" n="64" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_064.jpg"/>
            <head type="chapter">18. — Laine et coton. </head>
            <div type="récit">
               <p>Le soir même, après la rentrée au village, au bruit des trompettes de deux sous
                  dont sonnaient ses deux jeunes frères, <persName type="fictif" key="suzette">Suzette</persName> alla montrer son achat à <persName type="fictif" key="mme_valon">Mme Valon</persName>.</p>
               <p>— Est-ce là de la laine ?</p>
               <p><persName type="fictif" key="mme_valon">Mme Valon</persName> ayant examiné
                  l’étoffe et parfilé*<note type="annotation">Parfiler. Défaire un tissue fil à
                     fil.</note> plusieurs fils de la trame*<note type="annotation">Trame. Fil
                     conduit par la navette entre les fils qui constituent la chaine d'une
                     étoffe.</note> et de la chaîne*<note type="annotation">Chaîne. Les fils tendus
                     sur les deux rouleaux de gauche et de droite d'un métier.</note>, fit une
                  petite moue peu rassurante.</p>
               <pb type="page" n="65" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_065.jpg"/>
               <fw>LAINE ET COTON. 65</fw>
               <p>Puis elle alluma une bougie, en approcha un fil ; le fil commença de brûler avec
                  une petite flamme courte, laissant après elle une cendre compacte*<note type="annotation">Compact. Qui est épais et serré.</note> et grasse ; en même
                  temps, une légère odeur de roussi particulière et connue se dégagea. Quatre autres
                  fils, éprouvés de même, donnèrent la même flamme, la même odeur, et <persName type="fictif" key="suzette">Suzette</persName> se rassérénait ; son nez lui
                  disait : Voilà l'odeur de la laine qui brûle.</p>
               <p>Mais au cinquième fil, changement de spectacle. Celui-ci s'enflamma et, comme un
                  petit éclair, d'une seule et rapide traînée, arriva au doigt qui le tenait,
                  répandant une odeur nouvelle également caractéristique*<note type="annotation">Caractéristique. Qui fait connaître les qualitiés ou défauts propres à une
                     chose.</note> et connue, celle du brûlain.</p>
               <p>Et le brûlain c'est du coton ou du fil, chacun le sait ; et <persName type="fictif" key="suzette">Suzette</persName> le savait aussi pour en avoir
                  empli plus d'une fois la boite du briquet*<note type="annotation">Briquet. Petite
                     pièce d'acier servant à tirer du feu d'un caillou.</note> paternel.</p>
               <p>Le brûlage d'autres fils ne donna guère que cela.</p>
               <p>Le résumé de l'analyse*<note type="annotation">Analyse. Opération qui a pour objet
                     de distinguer les parties d'une chose.</note> fut : sept parties de laine,
                  trois de coton ; article de fabrication étrangère ; mauvaise contrefaçon*<note type="annotation">Contrefaçon. Action de copier, d'imitier l'œvre qu'un autre a
                     découverte ou qu'il a seul le droit de faire.</note> de nos honnêtes tissus de
                        <placeName><placeName key="Reims" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q41876" corresp="#suzpl0070">Reims</placeName></placeName> et de <placeName>Roubaix</placeName>.</p>
               <p>— Tu as payé cela de deux francs à deux francs vingt-cinq centimes ? </p>
               <fw type="sig">4</fw>
               <figure>
                  <caption>Le métier à tisser.</caption>
               </figure>
               <pb type="page" n="66" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_066.jpg"/>
               <fw>66 SUZETTE.</fw>
               <p>— Trois francs, hélas ! oui, <persName type="fictif" key="mme_valon">Madame</persName>, trois francs ! Il n'y avait ni sergé ni bleu marine.
                     <orgName>Les Parisiennes</orgName> n'en veulent plus !</p>
               <p>Elle se mit à pleurer sur sa sottise, sur son bon argent, sur son mauvais
                  cachemire vertbouteille.</p>
               <p>— On apprend à ses dépens comme le corbeau de la fable, lui dit <persName type="fictif" key="mme_valon">Mme Valon</persName>. Tu as laissé tomber dans la
                  gueule du renard un fromage d'une dizaine de francs. J'aurais dû songer à te
                  prévenir, à te dire aussi que depuis longtemps on n'achète plus ses robes à la
                  foire. Les chemins de fer, qui tranportent partout, et à commandement, les tissus
                  d'<placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q733414">Elbeuf</placeName>, de <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q198650">Lodève</placeName> et de
                  <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q184371">Sedan</placeName>, les toiles de <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q181285">Cambrai</placeName>, de
                  <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q188743https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q188743">Lisieux</placeName>, les soieries de <placeName>Lyon</placeName>,
                  les dentelles d'<placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q181269">Alençon</placeName>, de
                  <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q163795">Valenciennes</placeName>, les jambons de
                  <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q134674">Bayonne</placeName>, les couteaux de
                  <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q205576">Châtellerault</placeName>, les armes de
                  <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q42716">Saint-Étienne</placeName>, et non seulement les produits de la
                  <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q142">France</placeName>, mais aussi ceux du monde entier, les chemins de
                  fer ont supprimé les foires.</p>
               <p>Jadis, une fois l’an, elles se tenaient en des lieux marqués, comme, par exemple,
                  à <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1017">Aix-la-Chapelle</placeName>*<note type="annotation"><placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1017">Aix-la-Chapelle</placeName>. Ville
                     d'<placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q183">Allemagne</placeName> située près de la
                     <placeName ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q31">Belgique</placeName>.</note>, d’ou celle du Landit, instituée par
                  <persName type="historique" ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3044">Charlemagne</persName>, fut <figure type="sujets">
                     <caption>Le chanvre. On tire de cette plante, comme du lin, une filasse
                        abondante avec laquelle on fabrique du fil, de la toile et des
                        cordes.</caption>
                  </figure>
                  <figure>
                     <caption>Le ver à soie. Le ver à soie se nourrit de feuilles de mûrier. Il
                        laisse échapper de sa lèvre inférieure une sorte de liquide qui, en séchant,
                        forme un fil ; le ver s'enveloppe petit à petit de ce lit et finit par s’en
                        faire une prison après vingt jours de cet emprisonnement, de la dépouille du
                        ver sort, par un trou fait dans le cocon, un joli papillon. C'est avec les
                        fils provenant du cocon dévidé que se fabriquent les étoffes de soie, robes,
                        rubans, velours. C'est à <placeName>Lyon</placeName> que se trouvent les
                        plus grandes fabriques de soieries.</caption>
                  </figure>
                  <pb type="page" n="67" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_067.jpg"/>
                  <fw>LAINE ET COTON. 67</fw> transférée à <placeName>Saint-Denis</placeName> par
                  <persName type="historique" ref="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q71231">Charles le Chauve</persName>.</p>
               <p><placeName>Beaucaire</placeName>, <placeName>Provins</placeName>,
                     <placeName>Troyes</placeName>, <placeName>Saint-Quentin</placeName>, « ville
                  drapante », appelaient à elles tous les acheteurs du monde. Aujourd'hui, les
                  foires sont en permanence*<note type="annotation">En permanence. Se dit de ce qui
                     demeure longtemps dans un même lieu.</note> chaque jour dans chaque ville, en
                  de beaux magasins.</p>
               <p>— Hélas ! dit tristement <persName type="fictif" key="suzette">Suzette</persName>,
                  j'ai aussi acheté à la foire des souliers pour <persName type="fictif" key="charlot">Charlot</persName>, les souliers du Juif-Errant.</p>
               <p>— Les souliers du Juif-Errant ? Il les y avait donc laissés ? dit en riant
                     <persName type="fictif" key="mme_valon">Mme Valon</persName>. Puis, redevenue
                  sérieuse : </p>
               <p>— Ma chère enfant, il faut apprendre de tout côté ce qu'on doit savoir ; il faut
                  se connaître en étoffes, en souliers, comme en pain, en légumes, en viande ; sans
                  quoi, tu vois ce qui vous arrive.</p>
            </div>
            <div type="questionnaire">
               <head>Questionnaire.</head>
               <list>
                  <item>— Quel était l'objet de la visite que fit <persName type="fictif" key="suzette">Suzette</persName> à <persName type="fictif" key="mme_valon">Mme Valon</persName> ? </item>
                  <item>— Comment cette dernière discerna-t-elle la nature de l'étoffe ? </item>
                  <item>— Qu'eu conclut-elle ? </item>
                  <item>— Que dit <persName type="fictif" key="suzette">Suzette</persName> pour
                     expliquer son achat ? </item>
                  <item>— Pourquoi pleura-t-elle ensuite ? </item>
                  <item>— Est-il prudent d'a-<cb/>cheter aux foires l'étoffe des robes ? </item>
                  <item>— Pour quel motif ? </item>
                  <item>— Que savez-vous des anciennes foires ? </item>
                  <item>— Qu'est-ce qui en explique l'importance ? </item>
                  <item>— Quelles villes étaient renommées pour leurs foires ? </item>
                  <item>— Quel dernier conseil donna <persName type="fictif" key="mme_valon">Mme
                        Valon</persName> à <persName type="fictif" key="suzette">Suzette</persName>
                     ? </item>
               </list>
            </div>
            <div type="exercices">
               <head type="exercice">DÉVELOPPEMENT DES SUJETS PROPOSÉS POUR EXERCICES.</head>
               <div type="économie_domestique" xml:id="sujeco_018">
                  <head type="sujets">Économie domestique.</head>
                  <div type="questions">
                     <list>
                        <item>— Qui est chargé des achats du ménage ? </item>
                        <item>— Comment faut-il s'y prendre pour acheter en de bonnes conditions ? </item>
                        <item>— A quels marchands vous adresserez-vous de préférence ? </item>
                        <item>— Est-il prudent de s'attacher à acheter à bon marché ? </item>
                     </list>
                  </div>
                  <div type="réponses">
                     <p>Dans chaque ménage, le soin des achats revient à la mère de famille ; par
                        conséquent, la bonne situation du budget de ménage dépend de l'intelligence
                        avec laquelle elle règle les dépenses. Il faut qu'elle sache acheter à
                        propos ; acheter lorsqu'elle a de l'argent disponible et non à crédit, car
                        le crédit se paye cher ; acheter enfin en connaissance de cause, de manière
                        à ne pas se laisser séduire par des marchands peu scrupuleux.</p>
                     <p>Elle s'adressera de préférence aux négociants de la localité ou de son
                        quartier ; ce lui sera une garantie. Un passant, un forain, n'a point
                        intérêt à vous satisfaire, puisqu'il ne reviendra jamais.</p>
                     <p>Voici une dernière condition pour n'être pas dupe : ne recherchez pas le
                        meilleur marché. Ce qui est bon coûte cher et doit coûter cher. Comme le dit
                        un proverbe : <term>On en a toujours pour son argent</term>. Évitons donc
                        ces soi-disant occasions, les annonces tapageuses ou les naïfs se laissent
                        prendre ; car, une fois le marché conclu, il n'y a plus à revenir, et
                        l'argent si péniblement gagné est irrévocablement perdu.</p>
                  </div>
               </div>
               <div type="français" xml:id="sujfra_018">
                  <head type="sujets">Français.</head>
                  <div type="questions">
                     <list>
                        <item>— Écrire et analyser tous les noms propres de la leçon.</item>
                        <item>EXEMPLE. — <persName type="fictif" key="suzette">Suzette</persName>,
                           n. pr. fém, sing. — <placeName key="Reims" ref="http://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q41876" corresp="#suzpl0070">Reims</placeName>, n. pr, masc. sing.</item>
                     </list>
                  </div>
                  <pb type="page" n="68" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_068.jpg"/>
                  <fw>68 SUZETTE.</fw>
                  <div type="réponses">
                     <p>N. B. — Cet exercice sera fait oralement, de préférence. Il donne un
                        spécimen des sujets d'analyses qu'on peut tirer du texte d'une leçon de
                        lecture.</p>
                  </div>
               </div>
               <div type="sciences_naturelles" xml:id="sujnat_018">
                  <head type="sujets">Sciences naturelles.</head>
                  <div type="questions">
                     <list type="exercices">
                        <item>— Qu'appelle-t-on ver à soie ? </item>
                        <item>— A quel animal ressemble-t-il ? </item>
                        <item>— Quels sont les quatre états sous lesquels le ver à soie nous
                           apparaît successivement ? </item>
                        <item>— D'où cet insecte est-il originaire ? </item>
                        <item>— Où l'élève-t-on en <placeName>France</placeName> ? </item>
                        <item>— Comment le nourrit-on ? </item>
                        <item>— Qu'est-ce que les cocons ? </item>
                     </list>
                  </div>
                  <div type="réponses">
                     <p><term>Le ver à soie</term> naît dès œufs que pond un joli petit papillon de
                        couleur grise, originaire de la <placeName>Chine</placeName> et du
                           <placeName>Japon</placeName>. On élève cet insecte, dans nos pays du
                        moins, à l'intérieur de salles chauffées, et on le nourrit avec les feuilles
                        du mûrier. Il croît rapidement et devient une chenille blanchâtre qui, au
                        bout de quelques semaines, se met à filer un cocon (voir la gravure, 18e
                        leçon) dont la matière est la soie.</p>
                     <p>L'animal s'y transforme en chrysalide, et, si on le laissait dans cet état,
                        il arriverait qu'au moment où la chrysalide devient un papillon, le nouvel
                        insecte salirait et crèverait le tissu pour se créer une issue, puis
                        s'envolerait.</p>
                  </div>
                  <div type="questions">
                     <list>
                        <item>LE CHANVRE.</item>
                        <item>— Quel est l’aspect de la plante qui donne le chanvre ?</item>
                        <item>— Décrire l'opération du rouissage, en dire l'objet, ainsi que pour le
                           teillage.</item>
                        <item>— Comment peigne-t-on le chanvre ? </item>
                     </list>
                  </div>
                  <div type="réponses">
                     <p><term>Le chanvre</term>, plante textile annuelle des régions tempérées, est
                        une sorte d'arbuste qui atteint deux à trois mètres de hauteur et qui porte
                        des feuilles allongées dont l'odeur est pénétrante. Il donne des graines
                        noirâtres et luisantes, de nature huileuse, connues sous le nom de chènevis.
                        On le cultive dans les terrains d'alluvion, car il réussit seulement sur les
                        sols riches.</p>
                     <p>A la fin du mois d'août, les tiges, arrachées à la main, sont rassemblées en
                        bottes de 20 à 25 centimètres de diamètre. Pour que la pellicule qui
                        recouvre ces tiges puisse se détacher facilement, on fait séjourner les
                        bottes pendant une quinzaine de jours dans l'eau d'un ruisseau ou d'un étang
                        : c'est l'opération du rouissage. Puis on les expose au grand air et au
                        soleil pour qu'elles sèchent, et l'on procède au teillage, c'est-à-dire
                        qu'on enlève à la main ou à l'aide de machines les fibres qui les
                        recouvrent. Pour peigner le chanvre, deux ouvriers assis à chaque bout d'un
                        banc passent à tour de rôle, entre les dents de fer d'un peigne établi au
                        milieu de ce banc, leur poignée de chanvre.</p>
                     <p><term>Le lin</term> est une autre plante textile de petite dimension,
                        cultivée dans la région septentrionale de la <placeName>France</placeName>.
                        On en fabrique des toiles estimées et des dentelles.</p>
                  </div>
               </div>
               <div type="industrie" xml:id="sujind_018">
                  <head type="sujets">Industrie.</head>
                  <div type="questions">
                     <list>
                        <item>— Que fait-on des cocons, puis des fils de soie ? </item>
                        <item>— Citer les étoffes fabriquées avec des fils de soie.</item>
                        <item>— Prix du mètre de chacune.</item>
                        <item>— A quoi servent-elles ? </item>
                        <item>— Leurs avantages et leurs inconvénients.</item>
                        <item>— (Questions analogues sur le chanvre.)</item>
                     </list>
                  </div>
                  <div type="réponses">
                     <p>Lorsque les cocons sont achevés, on en fait périr la chrysalide en les
                        jetant dans une chaudière d'eau bouillante. Lorsqu'ils sont retirés et
                        séchés, des femmes et des jeunes filles les dévident, et l'on obtient ainsi
                        des écheveaux d'une soie blanche ou jaune qu'on teint et qu'on tisse de
                        manière à obtenir ces belles étoffes connues sous le nom de soieries.</p>
                     <p>Les principales sont : le satin, la faille, la moire, le surah, le foulard,
                        la gaze, le velours, les dentelles, le brocart, le damas, et celles si
                        connues sous le nom de rubans.</p>
                     <p>Le mètre de satin coûte... ; celui de faille....., etc.</p>
                     <p>Ces étoffes servent à confectionner les robes, les rideaux, les chapeaux,
                        les écharpes, les drapeaux, les bannières, les bas ; on en recouvre les <pb type="page" n="69" facs="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/BucknellDSC/suzette/master/images/page_images/Suzette_069.jpg"/>
                        <fw>OU IRA JACQUES ? 69</fw> parapluies et les ombrelles. En général, elles
                        ont un brillant très doux à l'œil ; mais elles se coupent et se graissent
                        facilement par l'usage.</p>
                     <p>La filasse de chanvre donne des fils résistants avec lesquels on fabrique
                        des toiles de ménage, des toiles à voiles et les cordages employés dans la
                        navigation principalement.</p>
                  </div>
               </div>
               <div type="géographie" xml:id="sujgeo_018">
                  <head type="sujets">Géographie.</head>
                  <div type="questions">
                     <list>
                        <item>— Indiquer les provinces et les départements où sont situées les
                           villes françaises nommées dans la leçon.</item>
                     </list>
                  </div>
                  <div type="réponses">
                     <p>EXEMPLE. — <placeName>Reims</placeName>, dép. de la
                           <placeName>Marne</placeName>, <placeName>Champagne</placeName>.
                           —<placeName>Roubaix</placeName>, dép. du <placeName>Nord</placeName>,
                           <placeName>Flandre</placeName>. — <placeName>Elbeuf</placeName>, dép. de
                        la <placeName>Seine-Inférieure</placeName>,
                        <placeName>Normandie</placeName>, etc.</p>
                  </div>
               </div>
            </div>
         </div>
      </body>
   </text>
</TEI>